Batteries
planning on 4 deep-cycle Group 29DC from Wal-Mart. they will be bought as i can afford, so i will label each with the date purchased, so i can track the older batteries and replace them.
the batteries are 13.00L x 6.80W x 10.00H Inches, and i will connect them each to a fuse block, 50A fused per battery. i think i have 8AWG wire to go from battery to fuse block, with Andersen SB-50 connectors for quick disconnect. no master disconnect, the SB-50 connectors will have to serve as such in the off-season.
i don't think i will need heavier wire for anything but charging from my 100A charger/converter. not even sure what the fuse panel can take, but i suspect max 6 or 8AWG. it is only a 50A master fuse panel.
the solar charger will handle solar and wind charging, but i will have no need to connect the load to the Epever load output. more of a PITA if somebody hits the off button.
i will need to run wire from the 50A AC inlet, all the way back to the power panel. i think i have enough wire. may have to use splicers, unless i can do without...
the front compartment will be for electrical and sewer hose, as well as drinking water hoses. i can build a partition to keep the drinking water and electrical side clean, and just put the sewer on the other side. likely in bags of some sort.
i have a pump and strainer, but they may need cleaning. should be simple. just pump some water with mild bleach in it, through the pump, and flush with clean water.
the hardest part will be installing the ceiling panels, and wall panels. i really should do that before much building, but after the roof weather-proofing.
for the roof vent for the fridge, i think i can just make a galv-steel cap, Geocel it on, and paint it for rust prevention.
things i need to buy, that other stuff depends on, other than lumber...
- stove cook-top
- sink (may have one)
- water-heater
- batteries (at least one to start)
- toilet
- vanity (?)
- tub/shower valve
- tub drain pipe
- RV shower-head
i may actually install the water-heater where it was, as it is an easy location to make a hole. i would need to make the lines easy to drain back, as they would have a long run, and use pipe insulation on the HOT side. i would also need to route LP gas to the unit. i can just build something around the water-heater, and provide access to it. bench maybe?
on the note of LP gas, i think i will abandon the pipe that is there, and run some 3/8 soft-copper line back from the regulators, to the furnace and stove, and then to the water heater. the T connections will be outside, under the camper, with isolation valves inside the camper, by the appliance.
I think the sewer valves "may" need replacing, but i don't know for sure. i know the pull-cables are dead, so it may be a good reason to replace the valves. i may opt to move the valves, but it would be far easier not to. i would need to get a sewer drain tank, just to be able to flush the tanks.
it would be very nice if i had a way to dump the sewer too. maybe a maceration pump, and a long hose, run into a to-be installed sewer connection.